editorial

On Indonesia’s Island of the Gods, a cultural retreat during Nyepi combines a spirited procession and insightful lectures with moments of serenity.
<figure id="attachment_137833" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-137833" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-137833 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Ogoh-ogoh.jpeg" alt="Ogoh-ogoh effigies on display at Saka Museum include Bhauma Narakasura, Child of Divine Challenge." width="1200" height="800" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Ogoh-ogoh.jpeg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Ogoh-ogoh-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Ogoh-ogoh-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Ogoh-ogoh-768x512.jpeg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-137833" class="wp-caption-text">Ogoh-ogoh effigies on display at Saka Museum include Bhauma Narakasura, Child of Divine Challenge. (Courtesy of Ayana Bali)</figcaption></figure>
The sight was enough to make anyone stop in their tracks. Beneath gloomy March skies thick with rainclouds, monstrous Ogoh-ogoh towered above the crowd that had gathered on a winding road in southern Bali. These fearsome sculptures—crafted from bamboo, papier-mâché, and other materials—symbolize the darker aspects of humanity. Adorned in checkerboard cloth, the effigies were held aloft by men wearing headdresses and black-and-white sarongs, their loud chants drowning out even the heaviest footsteps to dispel negative energy and ward off evil spirits. Such excitement heralds the impending arrival of Nyepi, a sacred celebration that marks a new year in the Balinese Saka calendar.
Despite my aching limbs, a glimmer of joy ignited within me as I marched alongside the giants from the lobby of Ayana Resort to <a href="https://www.sakamuseum.org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Saka Museum</a>, a purpose-built cultural center that opened last September on the 90-hectare <a href="https://www.ayana.com/bali/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ayana Estate</a> in the seaside Jimbaran area. The parade is an integral part of Ayana Bali’s Nyepi festivities, which have been designed to immerse guests in the rich local culture and religious traditions.
Earlier that day, I had joined a diverse group of travelers to explore the 5,000-square-meter museum. The building’s striking form—complete with glass walls, reflecting pools, and a soaring saddle-shaped roof—recalls a giant compass needle representing pangider bhuwana, the nine directions of Balinese cosmology. Setting foot inside is akin to entering sacred ground: male visitors are furnished with Balinese black sarongs and headdresses, while women are offered jarik—a traditional cloth serving as a skirt or shawl.
Saka Museum’s contemporary interiors reflect the deep connection between culture and nature in Balinese Hinduism, taking inspiration from caves, volcanic landscapes, and the night sky. Guided by the aroma of fragrant incense, I admired the softly illuminated antique statuary, and read a beautiful poem by Australian curator James Bennett about Nyepi, projected onto the wall and translated into multiple languages. We also learned about our Balinese astrological signs using the Palelintangan, a star calendar comprising 210 days divided into ten concurrent weeks of varying lengths.
<figure id="attachment_137830" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-137830" style="width: 1380px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-137830 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ogoh-ogoh-Credit-Eqqi.jpeg" alt="The Ogoh-ogoh parade at Ayana Bali. (Photo: Eqqi Syahputra)" width="1380" height="621" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ogoh-ogoh-Credit-Eqqi.jpeg 1380w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ogoh-ogoh-Credit-Eqqi-300x135.jpeg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ogoh-ogoh-Credit-Eqqi-1024x461.jpeg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ogoh-ogoh-Credit-Eqqi-768x346.jpeg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1380px) 100vw, 1380px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-137830" class="wp-caption-text">The Ogoh-ogoh parade at Ayana Bali. (Photo: Eqqi Syahputra)</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_137831" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-137831" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-137831 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Interior.jpeg" alt="A ground-floor inside the Saka Museum at Ayana Bali." width="1200" height="800" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Interior.jpeg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Interior-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Interior-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Interior-768x512.jpeg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-137831" class="wp-caption-text">A ground-floor inside the Saka Museum. (Courtesy of Ayana Bali)</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_137832" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-137832" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-137832 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Garden.jpeg" alt="The museum’s main pavilion as seen from the podium garden." width="1200" height="800" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Garden.jpeg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Garden-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Garden-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Garden-768x512.jpeg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-137832" class="wp-caption-text">The museum’s main pavilion as seen from the podium garden. (Courtesy of Ayana Bali)</figcaption></figure>
In the museum auditorium, we watched a short documentary depicting the Nyepi procession and the evolution of Ogoh-ogoh over time. Then it was on to the learning center to meet Professor I Made Bandem, a gifted dancer and prominent scholar in the field of Balinese arts and culture. Along with his wife and his son, I Made Marlowe Makaradhwaja Bandem, he demonstrated the family’s artistic talent; I was lucky enough to sit in the front row. The professor gave an enthusiastic rendition of the Wali sacred dance, and shared how his love of the arts began at a tender young age. “From the time I was six, my dad taught me Balinese traditional dance every night, at least an hour before bed,” he explained.
I Made Marlowe told us Nyepi is a time to deepen one’s connection with supreme deity Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa by observing four major prohibitions, including a ban on work and traveling. “During Nyepi, we cleanse the mind and spirit. It’s just us and the universe. No fire, and no entertainment, especially no gossip about other people,” he said, followed by laughter from the audience. Just as memorable is the moment we are prompted to do a kecak dance of our own, featuring the distinctive shouts of cak-cak-cak with raised arms and swaying hand movements.
Ascending to the museum’s second floor, I marveled at the impressive collection of Ogoh-ogoh effigies, each one depicting various characters and stories. One named Bhauma Narakasura, Child of Divine Challenge captivated me with its imposing presence. Born of Vishnu and the earth goddess Bhumi Devi, Bhauma has a vivid green lion-like face complete with sharp fangs, wide eyes, and deadly claws. A strong, ferocious figure, he embodies Shiva’s anger and controls the forces of nature, highlighting the important balance between creation and destruction.
All these events transpired on Pengerupukan, the day before Nyepi known as “the noise before silence.” Adding to the noise was the frequent bouts of torrential rain, as though nature was also clamoring to celebrate the occasion. Fortunately for us, it stopped long enough for the aforementioned Ogoh-ogoh parade.
The festivities continued into the evening with a lavish buffet dinner at Kampoeng Bali restaurant. That irresistible feast comprised everything from succulent babi guling (spit-roasted pig) to an assortment of grilled seafood, their tantalizing aromas stimulating my appetite from afar. As the rain subsided to a gentle drizzle, leaving lingering water droplets clinging to the eaves, the atmosphere remained upbeat. Our meal went hand-in-hand with a performance depicting the Ramayana epic, followed by an energetic fire dance.
Finally, at dawn the next morning, Nyepi arrived, enveloping the island in utter silence as streets emptied, the airport closed, and internet services ceased. Visitors are expected to remain in the grounds of their hotel, and I was happy to stay put in my one-bedroom abode at <a href="https://www.ayana.com/bali/the-villas-at-ayana/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ayana Villas Bali</a>. At 298 square meters, it was a far cry from my compact quarters in Jakarta. I especially liked my spa-like bathroom with a standalone tub, and the sectional couch in the living room ideal for reclining with a good book. Directly outside, the private plunge pool was flanked by a deck with umbrella-shaded sun loungers and an airy gazebo. From there, views of the Indian Ocean beckoned, the seemingly infinite horizon peeking above the greenery and the thatched rooftops of villas further down the hillside.
<figure id="attachment_137834" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-137834" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-137834 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Bedroom.jpg" alt="Inside a One Bedroom Ocean View Villa at Ayana Villas Bali." width="1200" height="673" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Bedroom.jpg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Bedroom-300x168.jpg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Bedroom-1024x574.jpg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Bedroom-768x431.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-137834" class="wp-caption-text">Inside a One Bedroom Ocean View Villa at Ayana Villas Bali. (Courtesy of Ayana Bali)</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_137835" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-137835" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-137835 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Exterior.jpg" alt="Each villa has its own plunge pool, deck, and Balinese-style gazebo." width="1200" height="673" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Exterior.jpg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Exterior-300x168.jpg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Exterior-1024x574.jpg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Villas-1-BR-Ocean-View-Villa-Exterior-768x431.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-137835" class="wp-caption-text">Each villa has its own plunge pool, deck, and Balinese-style gazebo. (Courtesy of Ayana Bali)</figcaption></figure>
<figure id="attachment_137836" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-137836" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-137836 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Bali-Thalassotherapy-Pool.jpg" alt="The impressive Thalassotherapy Pool at Ayana Spa." width="1200" height="900" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Bali-Thalassotherapy-Pool.jpg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Bali-Thalassotherapy-Pool-300x225.jpg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Bali-Thalassotherapy-Pool-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Ayana-Bali-Thalassotherapy-Pool-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-137836" class="wp-caption-text">The impressive Thalassotherapy Pool at Ayana Spa. (Courtesy of Ayana Bali)</figcaption></figure>
Those not content with staying indoors had several wellness activities to choose from: sunrise yoga classes, sound bathing sessions, and thalassotherapy at Ayana Spa. I myself opted for a traditional Balinese massage, and I felt the fatigue and muscle tension melt away as herbal oil gently enveloped my body to a recorded soundtrack of Balinese gamelan.
That evening, we made our way uphill to <a href="https://www.ayana.com/bali/ayana-segara/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ayana Segara Bali</a>, one of four properties within the estate, for a sumptuous dinner at the indoor-outdoor Mediterranean restaurant Scusa. Flickering torches guided our path to the well-lit dining room, where we tucked into hearty dishes like bufala pizza, Angus beef sirloin cooked perfectly to medium-rare, and the signature tiramisu. As the sun dipped below the horizon and darkness enveloped Bali, the night sky twinkled with a myriad of stars. Together with a few others, I headed upstairs to Ayana Segara’s Luna Rooftop Bar, where we stood awestruck in the celestial beauty spread out above us. I soon gave up trying to identify the individual constellations.
In the near-complete silence, broken only by the murmur of waves breaking against the cliffs far below, a sense of gratitude washed over me. I relished the clear star-filled skies after the heavy rains of the past few days, and the fresh air blowing in from the Indian Ocean—a welcome change from the gray miasma I’d grown used to while living in Jakarta. But most of all, I was grateful for the chance to dive a little deeper into Balinese culture and experience an age-old celebration found nowhere else.
<figure id="attachment_137829" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-137829" style="width: 1380px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-137829 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Exterior.jpeg" alt="A bird’s-eye view of Ayana Bali’s Saka Museum." width="1380" height="920" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Exterior.jpeg 1380w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Exterior-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Exterior-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Saka-Museum-Exterior-768x512.jpeg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1380px) 100vw, 1380px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-137829" class="wp-caption-text">A bird’s-eye view of the Saka Museum. (Courtesy of Ayana Bali)</figcaption></figure>
Nyepi stay packages at Ayana Bali are typically announced more than a month in advance, and feature an Ogoh-ogoh parade, a visit to Saka Museum, as well as curated dining and wellness experiences. The four properties on-site range from the family-oriented <a href="https://www.ayana.com/bali/rimba-jimbaran/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Rimba by Ayana Bali</a> (doubles from US$436, with breakfast) to <a href="https://www.ayana.com/bali/the-villas-at-ayana/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ayana Villas Bali</a> (from US$1,247, with breakfast) for extra privacy and plenty of indoor-outdoor living space.

A bird's-eye view of Ayana Bali's Saka Museum.

Walking Among Giants at Ayana Bali