Why stay?

Japanese sensibilities and local Indonesian flair are deftly interwoven in the design, service style, and food at this all-villa retreat in Bali’s central foothills. Crowning a forested hillside above the fast-flowing Pakerisan River, Hoshinoya Bali was the inaugural overseas outpost for Hoshino Resorts when it launched in 2017; its quiet seclusion and nature-ensconced setting will lower your stress levels in no time.

The area

Located in the rural Tampaksiring district, the intimate resort lies down the road from Tirta Empul Temple and the ancient rock-cut shrines of Candi Gunung Kawi, both of which form part of the island’s UNESCO-listed cultural landscape. A daily shuttle service to the center of Ubud, about a half-hour drive away, is offered to guests at no extra charge.

Every villa at Hoshinoya Bali enjoys direct pool access.

The feel

Japanese architect Rie Azuma and landscape designer Hiroki Hasegawa have created a self-contained resort village that blends in with the verdant surroundings. Beyond a gateway embellished by local sculptors and the breezy reception and lounge pavilions, stone paths and wooden walkways lead through the tropical foliage to just 30 villas, which are arranged along three canal-like swimming pools that nod to the island’s communal subak irrigation system. An existing subak channel running through the site was retained, contributing to a soothing soundtrack of running water and birdsong.

Guest quarters

The serene, capacious villas don’t just offer direct pool access: each one incorporates a private terrace with a thatched gazebo. Batik box lanterns and exquisite Javanese woodcarvings aside, the timber-dominated interiors are Zen-like in their minimalism, which extends from the futon-style beds to the bathrooms. A deliberate absence of TVs and clocks helps encourage rest and relaxation (there is, however, high-speed Wi-Fi). Guests have three categories to choose from: Bulan steps down to a shaded poolside lounge area; maisonette-like Soka features an upstairs bedroom and study; and the largest villa type, Jalak, includes a wraparound veranda with views across the Pakerisan valley.

Food and drink

The resort houses two loosely connected dining venues. Café Gazebo takes up a series of pavilions raised on stilts off the steep hillside, ideal for picnic breakfasts overlooking the treetops. Depending on the day, servers offer complimentary hand-whisked matcha or a locally inspired mojito with a snack in the afternoons. Chef Mitsuaki Senoo oversees the neighboring open-air restaurant, where 10-course dinners unite Mediterranean cooking with Balinese and Japanese flavors. Dishes might include tartare of locally caught tuna in a creamy mustard sauce; a palate-cleansing shiraee (mashed tofu salad) featuring sapodilla; and tender pieces of steak served with potato puree, curry powder–dusted burdock root, and green-chili sambal. In the mornings, the menu is headlined by hearty Western, Japanese, or Indonesian breakfast sets. Expect to see a deconstructed bubur ayam (spiced chicken porridge), with components presented in an array of small plates.

Enjoying a soak at the hillside spa within Hoshinoya Bali.

Wellness factor

From the spa reception pavilion, you’ll take a glass-roofed funicular to reach the treatment rooms perched halfway down the hillside. A 90-minute Balinese massage with lemongrass oil kneads out knots and eases muscle tension; traditional body scrubs are just as pampering for the skin. Yoga instructors lead sun salutation sessions each morning at a valley-facing gazebo and deck.

Family matters

Kids aged seven and above can sign up for activities like making canang sari floral offerings, Balinese dance classes, and a 45-minute walk through the rice fields. The Library, a cozy marble-floored reading room, has some reading material for children. Hoshinoya Bali also provides babysitters on request.

Sustainability cred

Island-grown rice, herbs, and spices are harnessed at the spa; the restaurant’s zero-waste kitchen has a similar focus on locally sourced fresh produce. Passive cooling methods in the villas reduce the air conditioning load, while the water that flows through the resort is shared with the surrounding community and used to irrigate the paddy fields downstream.

What else?

Even if you’re not artistically inclined, don’t leave without joining a hands-on batik-making lesson. Also recommended is the informative Banjar Tour through a nearby village, where you’ll have the opportunity to learn about Balinese cultural and social practices.

Reviewed by James Louie

hoshinoya.com/bali/
+62 361 849 3080
Banjar Pengembungan, Pejeng Kangin, Tampaksiring, Bali, Indonesia

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