Why stay?

Formerly the well-regarded Banyan Tree Ungasan, Umana Bali briefly struck out on its own before rebranding in 2023 as the first Southeast Asian outpost of Hilton’s LXR Hotels and Resorts — a global collection of top-tier properties with an independent spirit. The all–pool villa resort on the scenic Bukit Peninsula has been remodeled in a contemporary style guided by Balinese philosophy; its updated accommodations are expansive even by the island’s standards. Sweeping vistas of the Indian Ocean beckon from the public areas and some of the villas, which are perched on limestone cliffs 70 meters above the waves. LXR’s emphasis on personalized service means guests are entitled to a bespoke in-room minibar and customized itineraries designed by a dedicated “curator” (aka butler), who will be reachable via WhatsApp until checkout.

The area

Located just below the resort, the powdery white sands of Melasti Beach are popular among international visitors and local residents alike. It promises a family-friendly day out as the reef farther offshore keeps the waves at bay, creating calm conditions suitable for swimming and wading. Children can also explore the rock pools at low tide. Attractions in the wider surroundings include clifftop Uluwatu Temple, whose grounds host an open-air theater for the Kecak dance at sunset; the 85-hectare New Kuta Golf course; and Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park. Traffic permitting, these are all under a half-hour drive from Umana Bali. The journey to or from the airport should take around 40 minutes by car.

A view of the main infinity pool at Umana Bali, LXR Hotels & Resorts.

The feel

Derived from uma (the Balinese word for “rice field”), the resort is laid out in terraces that cascade down a lush hillside where breezes blow and tropical sunlight filters through the canopies of mature trees. Here, global hospitality design firm WATG and Wimberly Interiors have incorporated local legends and customs in the new-look decor. Inside the airy lobby, the handblown glass chandelier echoes the fluid movements of the Legong Keraton dance through its organically shaped metal rings and fans, while Balinese dancer statues have been assembled from kepeng — vintage Chinese coins once used as currency in Indonesia. A hallmark retained from Umana’s Banyan Tree days is the gorgeous main infinity pool that stretches out toward the Indian Ocean.

Guest quarters

Umana Bali has 72 light-filled villas in three different sizes and a variety of setups. Those with a single bedroom offer no less than 403 square meters of living space, while two-bedroom options are ideal for families, and three-bedroom villas cover an astounding 1,200 square meters. Clad in natural materials like stone and wood in neutral tones, each villa boasts a private infinity-edge pool, an outdoor hot tub with jets, and their own gazebos. Marble bathrooms come equipped with a deep soaking tub as well as indoor and outdoor showers. Outside, the soothing sounds of the pool fountain and melodious birdsong add to the overarching tranquility.

Food and drink

Uninterrupted sea views await at signature Mediterranean restaurant Oliverra, which spans three distinct spaces: The Dining Room, The Bar, and The Veranda. Highlights include Australian Kiwami wagyu steak, homemade squid-ink tagliatelle with clams in white wine sauce, and Grand Marnier soufflé with vanilla bean ice cream. Meanwhile, all-day dining venue Commune mainly serves Southeast Asian specialties. The buffet breakfast here truly hits the spot; a must-try at lunchtime is the nasi campur Rayunan, a local dish that pairs white rice with a mouth-watering array of sides: think Balinese minced chicken satay; fried fish fillets; ayam sisit (shredded spiced chicken), tossed vegetables, coconut, and peanuts; and soup with pindang eggs. (It also features prawn crackers, pickles, and six kinds of sambal.) Taking up its own breezy pavilion outside Commune, Pad Pool Bar is the place to enjoy sundowners inspired by local flowers and spices while grazing on bites from a Western-leaning menu. Finally, the lobby-side Mer Lounge stocks a variety of craft beers and over 200 wine labels.

Umana Bali’s Pad Pool Bar at twilight.

Wellness factor

Situated at the top end of Umana Bali, Lohma Spa comprises eight treatment rooms, a separate outdoor pool, plus a comprehensive lineup of facilities. Expect to see hot and cold plunge pools, steam rooms and saunas, an indoor yoga pavilion (the setting for complimentary classes each morning), and a duplex-style fitness center. As for therapies, you’ll need most of an afternoon to embark on the Tri Hita Karana Journey — this involves a 60-minute body scrub and wrap followed by a half-hour bath ritual, a 90-minute massage, and then an hourlong jade-roller facial. Other choices are Holotropic Breathwork to promote both self-awareness and emotional healing, and a “soul blessing” experience at the nearby cave temple of Pura Batu Pageh.

Family matters

Designed for children under 12, the on-site Kids Club features a central slide and ball pit as well as a cozy nap room. The daily-changing roster of activities range from arts and crafts like puppet-making and canvas painting to lessons in Balinese dance and language. Tailored spa offerings aimed at junior guests include yoga, sound healing, and meditation sessions, not to mention gentle back and scalp massages.

Sustainability cred

Umana Bali abides by a strong commitment to source locally, collaborate with artisans, and implement eco-friendly practices throughout the resort. Its redesign has incorporated Indonesian materials like fine marble and rattan from Java, while villas come with vanity kits wrapped in recycled banana leaf paper, coconut shell amenity boxes, and slippers woven from pandan and mendong grass fibers. Over 80 percent of the produce used in Umana’s kitchens hail from island farms.

What else?

Guest experiences run the gamut from stargazing with the resident astronomer to a helicopter ride over Mount Batur and its surrounding caldera in the island’s north-central highlands. There are ample ways to connect with the local culture, be it through a kite-making session led by a master kite builder, Balinese cooking classes enjoyed inside a home kitchen, or consultations with priests and temple elders. Opening soon on Melasti Beach is Uma Beach House, the resort’s own Miami-inspired beach club where chefs will cook up fresh Peruvian fare.

Reviewed by Eqqi Syahputra

hilton.com
+62 361 3007 000
Jl. Melasti Banjar Kelod, Ungasan, Bali, 80364, Indonesia

Umana Bali, LXR Hotels & Resorts: Light-filled Villas

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