In Niseko’s serene summer, Setsu invites stillness over spectacle. With Mount Yotei views, Michelin-noted dining, and minimalist design, this is a retreat for those who find luxury in simplicity.

The master bedroom suite at Setsu Niseko combines understated luxury with panoramic views of Mount Yotei and modern comforts.

When Le Corbusier designed the Convent of La Tourette in the hills outside Lyon, he designed each monk’s cell with a window framing the valley beyond. The rooms were austere—just a desk, bed and quietude, born from an idea that clarity not comes from accumulation, but subtraction. “I was trying to give them what men today need most”— said the famed architect—“the silence of peace.”

I didn’t expect to think about proto-Brutalism in a luxury hotel in Hokkaido. But there I was, cross-legged on a pale green tatami mat in a room with no furniture save two cushions—and one square window perfectly framing the majestic Mount Yotei, known for its resemblance to Mount Fuji. The volcano’s cloud-wreathed cone shifted by the hour: blue-veiled at dawn, black against an orange dusk. I returned to that room again and again, between dinners and hikes and onsen soaks. Not because there was something to do there—but because there wasn’t.

This is Setsu Niseko in summer: a hotel that rewards stillness as much as activity. Compared with the frenetic, Japow-filled winter season, summer in Niseko is quieter, gentler, greener—meltwater-fed rivers rush through the valleys, wildflowers flood the hillsides, and the clientele shifts to mostly Japanese travelers escaping the cities.

Set in the heart of Hirafu, Setsu’s 190 suites and residences feel more retreat than resort. It has won a slew of awards, including being voted the World’s Best New Ski Hotel in 2023, and more recently, was one of the first hotels in Japan to receive a Michelin Key from the Michelin Guide. The lobby offers a sense of arrival, dominated by two vast fireplaces, live-edge wood, raw stone and sprawling sofas that invite lingering. With approximately 350 artworks spread throughout, Setsu is as much a gallery as it is a hotel. The first thing you see upon stepping through its doors is a striking deer’s head covered in glass orbs by Kohei Nawa, which dramatically refracts the light like a prism. Behind the reception, a large calligraphic mural by 91-year-old Yoko Arano, said to paint only when the temperature hits -5°C, sweeps boldly across the wall.

My studio room was a study in modern Japanese design, with oak floors, textured ecru walls, and shoji screens that slid away to reveal new perspectives on the surrounding landscape. The in-room tap dispenses fresh mountain water, the subtly fragrant bathroom amenities are by local brand Siraca, and there is a washer-dryer and Miele-equipped kitchen for longer stays. Have deeper-than-usual pockets? You can’t go wrong with the four-bedroom penthouse suite, a magnificent alpine retreat with four large ensuite bedrooms, a large, open-plan living space with commanding floor-to-ceiling views of Mount Yotei, spacious outdoor terraces and its own private natural hot spring.

Private dining at Méli Mélo – Yuki No Koe offers a seasonal tasting menu in an intimate, serene setting within Setsu Niseko.

Inside Setsu Niseko, Sushi Kato Inori presents refined Edomae sushi crafted with local Hokkaido seafood and masterful precision. — Inside Setsu Niseko, Sushi Kato Inori presents refined edomae sushi crafted with local Hokkaido seafood and masterful precision.

Setsu’s summer dining options are diverse. méli mélo -Yuki No Koe- is the hotel’s all day diner. Breakfasts include wagyu rice bowls and sashimi, while dinner selections lean modern Italian with a Hokkaido accent—like wagyu with walnut miso, and aged Hokkaido pork punched up with a pickle-sliver sauce.

Afuri, the Tokyo ramen institution, brings its funky hip hop-soundtracked flair and signature yuzu-spiked broth, alongside Niseko-only craft cocktails and precisely-folded dumplings.

But the real draw is Sushi Kato INORI, a 14-seat sushi kaiseki restaurant. We had the genial chef Kato to ourselves—another off-season perk—and he delivered a procession of peak-season seafood: gelatinous junsai sprouts floating in a delicate dashi broth, sweet hairy crab with onion cream mousse; and surf clams dramatically smacked to make them contract and curl. There was opulence—like pale mouthfuls of Murasaki uni topped with gold-leaf—as well as plenty of creative twists, like a silky chawan mushi secretly studded with mozzarella, and a succulent king crab leg, pulled from Wakkanai’s chilly waters, deep-fried, seasoned like fried chicken, and served in a bespoke takeout box. “KFC,” quipped Kato, with a grin.

Service at Setsu is thoughtful and intuitive. The front desk can help with everything from booking a private onsen session to exploring the area’s attractions, including Mishima-san’s flower-filled garden, outdoor sports (like biking or white water rafting) at NAC next door, or tickets to Niseko Jazz Festival, held right in Setsu’s courtyard.

A treatment at Rikka Spa is a must, especially if you’ve spent all afternoon on mountain trails or on the water. Maya, my therapist, picked daisies on her way in and folded them into my salt scrub, which she administered in the spa’s sleeping ritual using long, rhythmic strokes. I promptly fell asleep, waking only in time for her thoughtful parting gift of a fragrant Hokkaido lavender and herbal compress to steep in my bath.

Rikka Spa at Setsu Niseko blends Japanese wellness philosophy with tailored treatments using natural, holistic ingredients.

Unwind at Setsu Niseko’s private and public onsen baths, where mineral-rich waters and mountain views offer deep relaxation. — Mineral-rich waters at Setsu Niseko’s private and public onsen baths offer deep relaxation.

In addition to a yoga studio and well-equipped 24-hour gym, there are four private onsen rooms on property, in addition to a stone-clad indoor/outdoor public bath. Drawn from a local hot spring, the water here has a silkiness that leaves skin feeling nourished and supple.

If winter is Niseko’s headline act, summer is its hidden track—slower, more atmospheric and best appreciated by those who already know the chorus. And Setsu is for those who understand, like Le Corbusier did, that sometimes the most profound part of travel isn’t found in compulsive itinerary-chasing, but the luxury of space to sit. And to see.

You know where to find me.

Why Setsu Niseko Is Hokkaido’s Most Serene Summer Escape

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