post

Gēn takes its name from the Chinese word for roots, in this case meaning locally sourced (and often native) produce that forms the narrative for the restaurant’s degustation-only menus. This fine-diner has turned heads for its boundary-pushing approach to Malaysian food with a Chinese foundation. The food is both thoughtful and exceptional: dishes like youtiao—deep-fried dough sticks—with chicken shreds, coagulated egg, leek and a red sesame oil from local artisan Ghee Hiang are familiar yet surprising. Cured local skipjack tuna and diced beetroot make for a smoky-sweet combination; the soursop and seabird nest algae teamed with a guava parfait is outstanding. Born in Johor Bahru, chef-owner Johnson Wong spent years cooking at kitchens around the world, including in Sydney and Paris, before settling in Penang and opening Gēn. The service is tight and knowledgeable, the fittings luxurious, and the wine list packs a punch above most, with drops from boutique producers like Pheasant’s Tears in Georgia and Kefraya in Lebanon representing lesser-known locales. —Leisa Tyler
<a href="https://www.genpenang.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">genpenang.com</a> 
+60 12 511 3323 
<a href="https://goo.gl/maps/x33cLwbvKwjin6a96" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Unit 6, The Prestige Arcade, 8, Gat Lebuh Gereja, George Town, Penang, Malaysia</a>

Gēn spotlights locally sourced ingredients in dishes like aged duck.

Gēn: Rooted in Locality