Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore), the capital of South India’s Karnataka state, is often overlooked by travelers. It is viewed mostly as a gateway to the southern state’s coastal region or its splendid ancient monuments and national parks. That’s a pity because Bengaluru, with its burgeoning art appreciation movement, diverse shopping venues, and an ever-evolving and expanding dining scene, certainly warrants more attention. Yes, the traffic may be legendary, but the balmy weather is a significant bonus. Here’s how to spend a leisurely 48 hours in the flamboyant infotech hub of India.

DAY ONE

Morning: Rise early to experience traditional breakfast at an old-Bangalore eatery in Malleshwaram, one of the city’s historic neighborhoods. CTR Shri Sagar (short for Central Tiffin Room) has been dishing out its signature benne (butter) masala dosas — crunchy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside savory rice crepes filled with spiced potato mash — to loyal customers since 1920. Kesari bath (semolina halwa) is the typical sweet accompaniment followed by hot, frothy filter coffee served in a tumbler and bowl set known as dabra. The place should begin filling with people queuing up outside as you head out to burn off all those calories on a guided walk through Malleshwaram’s storied lanes.

Get back into your hotel car to drive a short distance past the imposing Neo-Dravidian-style Vidhana Soudha (State Legislative Assembly) to the Museum of Art & Photography (closed Mondays), one of India’s first privately funded museums. MAP’s eclectic collection, ranging from classical, modern, and contemporary to folk and tribal art, textile craft, photography, and pop art, reflects founder Abhishek Poddar’s mission to reimagine modern museum-going culture by shifting the perception of art as elitist. Haven’t had your fill of creative inspiration? The state-run Chitrakala Parishath and the National Gallery of Modern Art that comprise the central art district, along with MAP and other smaller galleries, are just as impressive if not as cutting-edge.

Afternoon: Trippy Goat Cafe & Wine Bar, a delightfully informal space within a nostalgia-inducing heritage complex it shares with equally lovely retail outlets, is the perfect spot for a casual lunch. What to eat? Try lamb kola urundais (Tamil for spicy meatballs), wood-fired pizzas, flatbreads, and pulled pork tacos. The baked butternut squash is a standout. Pair all these with summery cocktails or fresh juices and locally sourced coffee. Or choose from the largest wine-by-the-glass menu in the city. Go easy, though; you have a spa appointment and an experiential dinner lined up.

Back at the Four Seasons, get pampered at the Infuse Spa later in the afternoon with signature treatments like the sensual 60-minute Flower at Four Seasons massage, or pick from a varied menu of holistic beauty treatments and services on offer at the salon.

Evening: There’s no better place for a sundowner in all of Bangalore than Copitas, the suave rooftop bar on the Four Seasons’ 21st floor. Get your preferred concoction mixed to perfection or sip on one of their signature cocktails inspired by indigenous botanicals out on the patio as the city’s urban sprawl lights up beneath you.

Then head down to CUR8, the hotel’s all-day dining venue, for Chef Nadeem Qureshi’s memorable interpretation of the Awadhi food cooked by his ancestors. He’s an accomplished seventh-generation Khansama from Lucknow (historical Avadh/Oudh). Highlights include tender black jamun-marinated chicken kebab, red pomegranate-infused grilled shrimp, Mughlai lamb seekh rolled in flaky thin parathas, black-raisin-and-basil flavored paneer tikka, and even the imaginative chutney accompaniments. Ask to be served alfresco for a more romantic ambience, perhaps in one of the gazebos overlooking the pool.

DAY TWO

Morning: A relaxed start this morning with a refreshing dip in the hotel’s temperature-controlled outdoor pool. Breakfast is at CUR8, where a showpiece grill, a full-size pizza oven, and several open and interactive kitchens rustle up a sumptuous buffet of international and local dishes. Should you need something tweaked for dietary reasons, the ever-accommodating staff will happily cater to your preferences.

Just a six-minute drive from the hotel, Science Gallery Bengaluru (closed Mondays) is a fascinating experiment in the fusion of art and science. Explore their current research festival and related art installations with trained ‘mediators’ to experience science through artistic visualization. A recent exhibition, titled Carbon, featured thought-provoking sculptures, sketches, animated cartoons, and installations by 36 Indian and international artists, prompting a nuanced look at carbon not just as a villain in the climate change narrative but also as something integral to human life.

Afternoon: “Craft Beer Capital” is one of Bengaluru’s many sobriquets. The city’s infotech boom and its infamous traffic situation are credited with the explosion of microbreweries about a decade ago. Byg Brewski Brewing Company in the Yeshwanthpur area is the place to sample some great artisanal brews along with hearty tapas-style snacks. If you have the time, or the stomach to tackle the traffic snarls that led to breweries going hyperlocal, the much larger Hennur Road branch is more architecturally striking.

Next, combine a coffee break with some genteel shopping. RainTree, housed in a beautifully restored colonial bungalow, hosts an excellent curation of some top Indian fashion labels alongside more accessible clothing brands and one-of-a-kind homeware. Overlooking the expansive lawn, its café serves excellent coffee and cakes. Mysore Saree Udyog, a 15-minute drive to the east in a crowded shopping street, is the go-to place for all things silk.

Evening: End your Bengaluru city break back on the 21st floor of the Four Seasons with a four- or seven-course Asian prix-fixe at Far & East. The interior is all moody black and tangerine sophistication, with seating arranged around a well-stocked glass-enclosed wine cellar. The full-length windows afford views nearly as dramatic as those from Copitas across the foyer. Okinawa-born chef Atsushi Yonaha’s Oishi Odroki (“delicious surprise”) — think melt-in-the-mouth bluefin tuna sashimi, the freshest flying-fish roe and crab stick, torched Atlantic salmon Nigiri, or avocado truffle maki — display his experience and fully complement the arresting aesthetics. The prawn miso soup, Cochin lobster dumpling, and XO seafood fried rice from the Chinese kitchen are equally tasty. The wine pairing is spot on, the service flawless.

— Madhu Shetty

ABOUT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BENGALURU

The second Four Seasons outpost in India, the Four Seasons Hotel Embassy One Bengaluru is located within a prime mixed-use development just 30 minutes by road from the airport and on the edge of the central business district. Beyond the sleek glass facade are 230 expansive rooms and suites (most with floor-to-ceiling windows) and outstanding dining experiences including an award-winning bar, all backed by the luxury hospitality brand’s trademark personalized service. Curious to find out more? Click here to read an in-depth review.