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An unexpected beacon of fine dining in Jakarta’s grungy-chic Blok M neighborhood, Su Ma is helmed by executive chef Rachel Tjahja and Jeonju-born pastry chef Ryan Kim, both of whom trained at Le Cordon Bleu Australia. Their combined Chinese Indonesian and Korean backgrounds serve as the bedrock for creative takes on East Asian cooking in seven- and 10-course dinners.
Su Ma’s latest Vol. 5 menu will thrill seafood enthusiasts. An homage to the <a href="https://destinasian.com/editorial/meet-the-fearless-female-free-divers-of-jeju-island">haenyeo</a> <a href="https://destinasian.com/editorial/meet-the-fearless-female-free-divers-of-jeju-island">women divers</a> of Jeju Island, slices of steamed Jeju abalone rest atop a smoky burnt leek egg custard flecked with prawn-and-shisho oil. (Oscietra caviar and cured egg yolk grated at the table add texture and complexity.) Tjahja nods to her favorite dim sum dish with a delicate cheong fun that swaps out the rice flour wrapping for Hokkaido scallop, enclosing a luscious foie gras, smoked duck, and prawn filling. The roll comes paired with shaved black truffle in a chrysanthemum kombu sauce.
There’s also tender octopus with burned shishito romesco sauce, as well as shio koji–cured Patagonian toothfish: chargrilled then placed on crispy suan cai tempura and white bean puree. Lightly charred crescents of supple, sous vide sea cucumber are served in a bowl alongside cat’s ears noodles and baked taro pieces with dried scallop sauteed in angsio gravy. The meat course is a guest favorite from the previous Vol. 4 menu; this bao and beef Wellington crossover features Aussie wagyu tenderloin coated with a blend of Hakka pickled mustard greens, bamboo shoot, and spinach inside a laminated brioche.
For the final dessert, Kim transforms Indonesia’s rich and earthy kluwak—the ink-black fermented seeds normally reserved for meat stews—into ice cream, tuile, and a “kluwak espresso” that yields a subtle hit of Sichuan pepper. When taken with a cherry compote, the latter is reminiscent of black forest cake.
If all that isn’t quite enough, ask for the optional Nasi Goreng Encore—a Su Ma specialty and arguably Jakarta’s most decadent version of the street food dish. Cooked with XO chili oil, it brings together a medley of leftover luxe ingredients: foie gras, salmon roe, bafun uni, black tobiko, smoked duck, and Italian truffle. You’ll be tempted to polish off every last spoonful. —James Louie
<a href="https://www.sumajakarta.com/?DestinAsian" target="_blank" rel="noopener">sumajakarta.com</a> 
+62 822 1017 5433 (WhatsApp) 
<a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/pxnd44y2NNYTMDSVA" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Jl. Sultan Hasanudin No.74, Melawai, Jakarta, Indonesia</a>

Titled Shio Koji Land & Sea, this main course features chargrilled Patagonian toothfish and beef sausage in white bean puree; the restaurant’s exterior.

Su Ma: Avant-Garde Asian Cuisine

Jakarta Dining