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Neapolitan chef Giovanni Galeota helms this elegant restaurant-within-a-restaurant on the ground floor of <a href="https://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/hong-kong?DestinAsian" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Rosewood Hong Kong</a>, where the elevated Italian comfort food is based on what’s in season and sustainably sourced. Tasting menus might include fork-tender Atlantic sea bass in a polenta crust accompanied by herby pil-pil sauce and braised celeriac, or, served on a bed of braised artichokes with leek foam and lobster jus, subtly sweet New Zealand langoustine draped in thin sheets of lard from Tuscan Cinta Senese pigs. Both are light yet richly flavored.
Meanwhile, à la carte signatures at <a href="https://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/hong-kong/dining/the-dining-room?DestinAsian">The Dining Room</a> range from Piedmontese milk-fed veal tartare featuring buffalo ricotta to the sublime Calamaretti ’Mbuttunati. The latter comprises baby squid stuffed with pecorino and fava beans, resting on airy potato purée underlined by the umami notes of squid ink, a touch of heat from coarsely ground Espelette pepper, and a citrusy brightness. From the pasta selection, a must-order is the homemade “Sardinian gnocchi” (aka malloreddus) with fresh, melt-in-the-mouth Mazara red prawn in a Datterino tomato sauce. Amalfi lemon—the taste of southern Italian sunshine—gives this robust primo piatto a lift. Drinks-wise, there are 40-year-old bottled aperitivi and an impressive wine list that takes in the full breadth of Italian appellations. The verdict? Galeota may well be steering The Dining Room toward Michelin star territory. —James Louie
<a href="https://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/hong-kong/dining/the-dining-room?DestinAsian" target="_blank" rel="noopener">rosewoodhotels.com/en/hong-kong/</a> 
+852 3891 8732 
<a href="https://goo.gl/maps/z9BdHJ9XbACMNxTu5" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong</a>

Insalata d’Astice, or lobster salad with citrus fruits from the Amalfi Coast, at The Dining Room by BluHouse.

The Dining Room by BluHouse: Italian Comforts