Once a hidden gem, Hokkaido’s most popular winter resort is a surefire magnet for powder seekers, luxury travelers, and global elites.

An aerial view of Niseko's Grand Hirafu area. — An aerial view of Niseko’s Grand Hirafu area. (Courtesy of Niseko Tokyu Grand Hirafu)

The problem with skiing in Niseko is that it ruins skiing anywhere else. Nowhere has the quality or the consistency of this powder. It is like I am forced to keep coming back,” says Singaporean Andy Ho as we ascend Hirafu’s 10-person Ace Gondola.

Knee-deep spaghetti-string ribbons snake across the face of the mountain. It’s 11:30 a.m., and most of the runs and side country have already been tracked out by the armies of skiers and snowboarders chasing a perfect “J-Pow” day. Lucky for them, Niseko has many of these days. And a whole lot of powder.

At the bottom of the lift, teams of preening influencers in Gucci-North Face collaboration snowsuits take selfies of themselves holding boards—upside down. Luxury concierge services for the well-heeled offer everything from private cat skiing and snowmobile adventures to some of Asia’s best chef-made dinners.

Down the road, New York–born Wolfgang’s Steakhouse operates a food truck flogging US$170 28-day aged Black Angus ribeyes. Nobody seems to care that they are in the home of the world’s best beef. Magnums of Dom Perignon are sold at the local convenience store. Tech titans such as Mark Zuckerberg come here to ski while Alibaba founder Jack Ma has purchased a home and land.

Once upon a time, however, it was a backwater on the luxury alpine stage. It used to be referred to as the St. Moritz or Aspen of the East. Now, it’s just referred to as Niseko. Asia’s premier ski town. Coming here is a rite of passage for the discerning luxury traveler over the winter season from November to late April, before they jet off to sunnier locales in the Maldives and Bali.

Backcountry skiing outside Niseko in Hokkaido, Japan. (Photo: Jeremy Bishop/Unsplash)

Clustered together on the slopes of the same mountain, Niseko United is four resorts rolled into one. It comprises the family-friendly and laidback Annupuri; Niseko Village; luxury bolthole Hirafu—split between Upper and Lower Hirafu; and upmarket Hanazono, favored by Hong Kong’s richest families.

Fueled by 30-year lows for the yen, Japan has run up record tourist numbers in the past year. Niseko has clawed back its arrival figures to close to pre-Covid times. Like many places however, that boom has come at a cost, with straining infrastructure and disaffected locals who are not cashing in on the great snow rush. Taxis are hard to find and there are bristling cultural issues in normally reserved Japan.

Insiders say that while there have been some growing pains and there are lurking competitors in Hokkaido and the main island of Honshu, Niseko will not be giving up its title anytime soon.

“It took us 30 years to become what we are now. What is basically the premier ski destination and for this Hirafu village in particular to be what it is. I’m not saying that the current state is at its best, but it’s got a good mixture of lifestyle, residence, hotels, food and beverage and retail,” says Satoshi Nagai, General manager of Niseko Tourism Promotion. “Whilst Furano or Honshu, or Nagano are being called the second Niseko. It will again take them another 30 years to mimic what we have here.”

Where to Stay

The cozy lobby at Setsu Niseko. (Courtesy of Setsu Niseko)

Just a few minutes’ walk from the lifts at Grand Hirafu sits Setsu Niseko, which took the title of World’s Best New Ski Hotel at the 2023 World Ski Awards. This modernist bolthole with 190 rooms and suites was designed by Singapore-based architect Mok Wei Wei. Apart from the design, another highlight is its top-quality eateries. Try Tempura Araki, the omakase outpost of its namesake two-Michelin-starred Sapporo restaurant.

Home to a gym, yoga studio, public and private onsens, kid’s room, and ski concierge, the hotel also hosts Rikka Spa, where guests indulge in treatments based on the elements of Wood, Fire, Earth, Metal, Water and Yin-Yang principles under the guidance of luxury spa and wellness outfit Lapidem.

setsuniseko.com

Curious to venture beyond Niseko? Read about two of Hokkaido’s other skiing hot spots here.

Niseko Calling: Life in Asia’s Premier Ski Town

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