editorial

Peace is a fleeting feeling for many, but it is simply a way of life for the Tibetans of Jiuzhaigou.
Photographs by Carissa Wong
<figure id="attachment_144109" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-144109" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-144109 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Colorful-prayer-flags-flutter-in-the-Spring-breeze-in-Jiuzhaigou-scaled-e1746515384939.jpg" alt="Colorful prayer flags flutter in the Spring breeze in Jiuzhaigou." width="1200" height="900" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Colorful-prayer-flags-flutter-in-the-Spring-breeze-in-Jiuzhaigou-scaled-e1746515384939.jpg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Colorful-prayer-flags-flutter-in-the-Spring-breeze-in-Jiuzhaigou-scaled-e1746515384939-300x225.jpg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Colorful-prayer-flags-flutter-in-the-Spring-breeze-in-Jiuzhaigou-scaled-e1746515384939-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Colorful-prayer-flags-flutter-in-the-Spring-breeze-in-Jiuzhaigou-scaled-e1746515384939-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-144109" class="wp-caption-text">Colorful prayer flags flutter in the Spring breeze in Jiuzhaigou.</figcaption></figure>
Hidden in the mountainous borderlands of southwest China’s Sichuan province, Jiuzhaigou (literally “Nine Village Valley”) has long been settled by indigenous Tibetans. Known for its natural beauty, vibrant turquoise lakes, and vast valleys, the area is a popular destination for tourists from around the region. 
Although the nine villages in Jiuzhai Valley National Park have consolidated to form just three, local ways of living remain strong. The open lands and towering mountains are almost too vast to comprehend; visitors cannot help but feel inspired by the deep sense of peace emanating from the Tibetans that live here.
<h2>Holding faith</h2>
Roads and houses are lined with brightly colored flags that wave gently in the breeze, or with a hand-clapping flap when the wind picks up; as if applauding nature’s finest work. The flags represent Tibetan prayers and blessings and are not merely for decoration but also for the people and the land.
Pride in tradition and heritage holds strong here. Some visitors are lucky enough to visit Ke Jia’s home to get an insight into Tibetan culture. Ke Jia, who works as a laundry supervisor at Conrad Jiuzhaigou, often hosts these home visits organized by the hotel, which provide him with an additional source of income.
He is keen to share his home with visitors, even in high season when tourist numbers peak, “It is never a bother,” he smiles. The ceiling of his home is lined with colorful flags, and his living room is the most ornate I have ever seen.
<figure id="attachment_144108" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-144108" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-144108 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Tibetan-Homestead-Experience-e1746515147645.jpeg" alt="Tibetan homestead experience." width="1200" height="800" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Tibetan-Homestead-Experience-e1746515147645.jpeg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Tibetan-Homestead-Experience-e1746515147645-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Tibetan-Homestead-Experience-e1746515147645-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Tibetan-Homestead-Experience-e1746515147645-768x512.jpeg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-144108" class="wp-caption-text">Kie Jia&#8217;s colorful home.</figcaption></figure>
Floor to ceiling, it is covered in intricate, multicolor designs. Much like the prayer flags, they’re not just for show. Everything is there for a reason. Each painting has its place and purpose — the motifs represent significant Tibetan Buddhist symbols such as the 12 zodiac animals, deities, and the lotus. 
 “I can’t add an animal to the wall just because I like it. Nor would I place the deities by the door (as they have their own place by the altar). It just wouldn&#8217;t make sense,” he explains.
Not all Tibetan homes are decorated, nor are the decorations always hand-painted. With modernization, many homes now take on a more contemporary appearance, but Ke Jia is particular about preserving tradition and his deep connection to culture.  Being in his home, surrounded by these intentional, sacred adornments I felt held by a warm sense of care, safety, and peace. 
<h3>Living with the land</h3>
Tibetans in Jiuzhaigou used to have two primary income sources: growing or gathering plants that flourish at 2,000 to 4,000 meters above sea level; or rearing yak. With the influx of tourism, many have found work in hotels too.
Looking across the valley, I noticed that yaks were scarce. Ke Jia said many families now rear yaks at bigger, open pastures. They can be shared by multiple families, with over 1000 in total. “We know which yaks are ours. We’ve seen them grow from calves to adults. It’s easy to differentiate the shades of gray.” He adds, “For more ambiguous-looking yak, we tag them.”
Even the yaks are self-sufficient, without a need to be tended to daily. They survive happily by grazing the mountains and drinking fresh mountain water. 
<figure id="attachment_144149" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-144149" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-144149 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-Tibetan-tea-making.jpg" alt="Making of butter tea and Tsampa - a Tibetan staple foodstuf." width="1200" height="800" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-Tibetan-tea-making.jpg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-Tibetan-tea-making-300x200.jpg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-Tibetan-tea-making-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-Tibetan-tea-making-768x512.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-144149" class="wp-caption-text">Making butter tea and tsampa — a Tibetan staple.</figcaption></figure>
<h4>Prioritizing health, safety, and peace</h4>
The locals I meet are proud of their heritage and keen to share this with visitors. Mai Ren Zuo (pictured above in red), a chef at Conrad Jiuzhaigou&#8217;s staff canteen, demonstrated how to make Tibetan butter tea and tsampa, a traditional barley-based meal that is one of the staple foods of the region.
Tsampa is made with barley flour, tea, and salt or sugar (locals usually prefer it with salt, while guests often prefer it with sugar). It’s like bread dough, with an earthy taste and slightly gritty texture. The Tibetan version of a modern-day energy bar, tsampa is easy to make, store, and pack for travel. 
Mai Ren Zuo often made long treks up the mountain to 4,000 meters to harvest plants. Today, tourism has offered her another path in life that makes her quite emotional. “I&#8217;m grateful for tourism as it provides jobs in hotels. I used to only own one pair of pants. I’d hike up the mountain for hours in the morning; I’d have to wear the same pair all day, even if they got wet. I&#8217;m so thankful that I can have multiple sets of clothes now.”
Health, peace, and safety are extremely important to Tibetans. They are common themes for blessings, whether on brightly colored prayer flags, paintings, or offerings that burn brightly, carried away in the wind.
<figure id="attachment_144111" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-144111" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" class="wp-image-144111 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-frozen-lake-scaled-e1746520034573.jpg" alt="In winter, Jiuzhaigou lie silent and still." width="1200" height="900" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-frozen-lake-scaled-e1746520034573.jpg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-frozen-lake-scaled-e1746520034573-300x225.jpg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-frozen-lake-scaled-e1746520034573-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Jiuzhaigou-—-frozen-lake-scaled-e1746520034573-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-144111" class="wp-caption-text">In winter, Jiuzhaigou’s lakes lie silent and still.</figcaption></figure>

Living Mindfully with Tibetan Locals in Jiuzhaigou

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