These lesser-known gems offer the same powder and world-class facilities as Niseko—minus the crowds and high prices.

A skier ____ a challenging run at Rusutsu. — A skier hits the powder on a challenging run at Rusutsu. (Courtesy of Rusutsu Resort)

While Niseko dominates headlines as Hokkaido’s winter sports mecca, there are quieter ski spots to discover in the nearby locales of Kiroro and Rusutsu. Both offer the same pristine powder, breathtaking landscapes, and world-class amenities, but without the crowds, long lift lines and increasingly high-line prices, and the added opportunity of skiing from late November right through to early May.

KIRORO

A bird’s-eye view of Kiroro Snow World, a ski area on the slopes of Mount Asaridake. (Courtesy of Kiroro)

“These have been the most epic ski days of my life. It’s just pelted down the last week. I’ve never been close to being this deep, or this happy. I can’t even count the number of face shots I got,” beams the UK’s Andrew Clark, who was on his first trip to Hokkaido.

Kiroro’s nickname, “the hidden secret,” might need to be changed because it seems like the secret is out. The rumor is that due to its northern location, it gets up to 20 meters of snowfall a year—a staggering amount of the fluffy powder even by Hokkaido standards. Secrets and rumors aside, this resort in Akaigawa, 30 kilometers northwest and about a 50-minute drive from Niseko, is a short-enough commute for day trippers from both Niseko and Rusutsu.

Developed by conglomerate Yamaha in the dizzying bubble economy of the 1980s, it was then acquired by Thailand-based developer Property Perfect. The new owner worked with Mountain Works, responsible for resort masterplans including Vail in Colorado, and Are in Sweden to revise its layout and offerings.

There are 23 wide, sweeping groomed runs—nine advanced, six intermediate, and eight beginner treks. But the real attraction is its famed side and backcountry. People like Clark come from all over the world to get partially lost in it. “I could stay forever. It just doesn’t get tracked out. What a beautiful place,” he says.

Where to Stay

The living room of a 3-Bedroom Superior suite at Yu Kiroro. (Courtesy of Yu Kiroro)

Yu Kiroro exudes a homey, familiar sense of warmth. The 104-unit ski-in-ski-out property is really the only place to stay for those looking for understated luxury in Kiroro. The hotel features rich timber interiors adorned with sleek modern furniture and edgy design elements. There are also Japanese public and private onsens, and a ski valet with ski lockers; a gym, bakery, bar, and restaurant round out its offerings.

RUSUTSU

Soaking up the view from the indoor baths at Rusutsu Onsen - Kotobuki. — Soaking up the view from the indoor baths at Rusutsu Onsen – Kotobuki. (Courtesy of Rusutsu Resort)

“I don’t look at snow forecasts. That’s one of my philosophies because guests are always asking me ’what’s the forecast?’ We’re spoiled and here for the season. Just wake up and look outside. Either it’s blue skies and you’re happy, or it’s snowing and you’re happy,” says longtime resident and owner of Mountain Memories ski school Henry Hockley. “Some people say it’s a great season because they came in March and there was a lot of snow. But it is always the same. About 13-16 meters a year.”

Just a 30-minute drive to the east of Niseko, Rusutsu is three mountains of awesomeness: home to Hokkaido’s biggest resort, where expansive runs and hundreds of lines through birch and Hokkaido pine and fir trees all end up back on piste, making it pretty difficult to get lost. It routinely bags Japan’s Best Ski Resort at The World Ski Awards, and is also a true year-round destination with golf courses and wellness retreats.

But compared to Niseko it is almost empty. There is little competition on the slopes for fresh powder and even less in the trees and exceptional side country. Its almost retro bubble-era feel just adds to the experience over its 37 runs and 42 kilometers of trails across East Mountain, West Mountain, and Mount Isola. Rusutsu has terrain to keep everyone from beginners to advanced skiers happy.

But it is the world-class tree skiing that should not be missed. From up high at the top of the Mount Isola Gondola the views are sublime out to the Pacific Ocean and Lake Toya, a volcanic caldera lake that never ices over and is almost transparent year round.

“It’s insanely quiet. You go to ski towns normally and it’s so busy and so crazy that after a week’s holiday you feel completely overwhelmed. Here it offers some of the best skiing and infrastructure I’ve seen but you wait two minutes at the lift. It’s truly special,” says Hockley.

Where to Stay

Winter at The Westin Rusutsu Resort. (Courtesy of The Westin Rusutsu Resort)

The Westin Rusutsu Resort is a quintessential Japanese luxury ski-in ski out hotel. Most of its 210 rooms and suites have been refurbished, with the rest to be completed by 2026. Facilities include a gym, ski lockers, and snowmobiling services. The warm hospitality is another key aspect of a Hokkaido ski vacation. Check out the excellent second-floor Japanese restaurant Kazhana, where master chefs serve up butter-soft beef teppanyaki and staggeringly beautiful plates of sushi, famed local pork, and Hokkaido seafood.

Hokkaido’s Other Skiing Hot Spots

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