editorial

Words by Alicia C. Sy July 23, 2024
With its vast and varied dining scene constantly evolving, there’s never been a better time to eat your way through the Philippine capital.
<h2><a href="https://www.inato.ph/">Inatô</a></h2>
An intimate à la carte experience that celebrates Filipino cuisine.
<figure id="attachment_138906" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-138906" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-138906 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Inato-Manila-Interior-and-Dishes.jpg" alt="The cozy interior of Inatô Manila; a delicious Pompano fish dish." width="1200" height="894" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Inato-Manila-Interior-and-Dishes.jpg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Inato-Manila-Interior-and-Dishes-300x224.jpg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Inato-Manila-Interior-and-Dishes-1024x763.jpg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Inato-Manila-Interior-and-Dishes-768x572.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-138906" class="wp-caption-text">Left to right: Counter-side seats at Inatô Manila; putting the finishing touches on a pompano-centric dish. (Courtesy of Inatô)</figcaption></figure>
Since it opened earlier this year, Inatô has become the hottest table in town — or, as it only hosts eight seats at its counter — the hottest chair. At the helm is chef J.P. Cruz, alumnus of the award-winning Toyo Eatery. Similar to Toyo, Inatô’s cuisine is globally informed and focuses on Filipino flavors and techniques, yet Cruz relies on his own experiences and interpretation of such, resulting in a menu that is uniquely Inatô. Unlike other modern Filipino restaurants that showcase their gastronomic point of view through tasting menus, Inatô is an à la carte experience that is then supplemented with a few surprises from the kitchen. Anecdotes and backgrounders on ingredients are shared for each course and give context to the culinary encounter. Not to be missed are the roast baby corn served with grated mimolette cheese, grilled chicken oyster skewers, and swordfish served with a rich sauce of roasted shrimp heads and tropical fruit.
—<a href="https://www.inato.ph/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">inato.ph</a>; The Alley at Karrivin, Chino Roces Ave., Makati.
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<h3><a href="https://www.hapagmnl.com/">Hapag</a></h3>
Creative takes on local dishes and ingredients.
<figure id="attachment_138903" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-138903" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-138903 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Hapag-Manila-Food-and-Interior.jpeg" alt="Binakol, Inadobo, and Ensalada dishes by Hapag; the stylish interior of the restaurant." width="1200" height="894" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-138903" class="wp-caption-text">Left to right: A course of binakol, inadobo, and ensalada at Hapag; the stylish interior of the same restaurant. (Courtesy of Hapag)</figcaption></figure>
Another new dining room serving progressive Filipino fare is the reopened Hapag, also in Makati. Having moved from its original outpost in Quezon City, the new space was designed by Liza Morales of Ecotecture Designs and occupies two floors that it shares with Ayà, a cocktail bar. Chefs Kevin Navoa and Thirdy Dolatre inaugurated Hapag 2.0 with a 10-course Metodolohiya menu. Highlights include grilled lobster inasal with pineapple salsa, the Batangas Bonete bread course with seaweed butter and mulberry jam that is served mid menu, and a steamed prawn tamale made with cornmeal. The wine pairing offers a refreshing exploration of grapes from around the globe that stand up to the strong Filipino flavors. Upstairs at Ayà, be sure to try the seaweed rice crackers with red pepper aioli and the squid-ink egg noodles in a black adobo sauce.
—<a href="https://www.hapagmnl.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">hapagmnl.com</a>; The Balmori Suites, Rockwell Center, Makati.
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<h4><a href="https://momentgroup.ph/brands/show/manam">Manam at Ayala Triangle</a></h4>
Casual Filipino dining redefined in a parkside setting.
<figure id="attachment_138908" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-138908" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-138908 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Manam-Manila-Interior.jpeg" alt="The warm and contemporary interior of Manam Restaurant." width="1200" height="800" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-138908" class="wp-caption-text">The warm, contemporary dining room of Manam Restaurant. (Courtesy of Manam)</figcaption></figure>
If traditional Filipino fare with the occasional fine flourish is what you seek, this spot has you covered. It’s the flagship of the Manam group of restaurants (which has branches around Manila) and the only one that accepts reservations. In addition to offering all of the delicious dishes that made Manam famous, such as the Crispy Pork Sisig and Watermelon Beef Sinigang, it also serves celebratory items that can be ordered ahead and served tableside such as a roast baby pig. For dessert, enjoy the bibingka bar and halo halo (shaved ice) cart. Cocktails and wine are also served at this location.
—<a href="https://momentgroup.ph/brands/show/manam" target="_blank" rel="noopener">momentgroup.ph</a>; Ayala Triangle Gardens, Makati.
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<h5><a href="https://www.instagram.com/kasapalma/">Kasa Palma</a></h5>
A fusion of flavors in a bohemian beach setting.
<figure id="attachment_138907" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-138907" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-138907 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Kasa-Palma-Manila-Cocktail-and-Local-Tile-Fish-with-Crispy-Scales.jpg" alt="Craft cocktails by Palma's bar area; local tile-fish with crispy scales." width="1200" height="745" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Kasa-Palma-Manila-Cocktail-and-Local-Tile-Fish-with-Crispy-Scales.jpg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Kasa-Palma-Manila-Cocktail-and-Local-Tile-Fish-with-Crispy-Scales-300x186.jpg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Kasa-Palma-Manila-Cocktail-and-Local-Tile-Fish-with-Crispy-Scales-1024x636.jpg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Kasa-Palma-Manila-Cocktail-and-Local-Tile-Fish-with-Crispy-Scales-768x477.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-138907" class="wp-caption-text">Left to right: A craft cocktail at Kasa Palma; the tasting menu includes local tilefish with crispy scales. (Courtesy of Kasa Palma)</figcaption></figure>
Another noteworthy newcomer is the “reincarnation” of chef Aaron Isip’s wildly popular Balai Palma, which occupies a much larger space up the road. The wabi-sabi beach aesthetic and cuisine remain distinctly Isip’s, marrying his love for Philippine produce with a penchant for Latin American flavors and French technique. Isip knows that the Filipino diner looks for flavor first and foremost — it’s all about the umami, and he fuses that with the sour notes and spice that he enjoys. Tasting menu dishes include his now-famous Ube in Three Textures with Halaan clams, Oscietra caviar, and a clam emulsion, while wood-fired and smoked meat, fish, poultry, and vegetables take center stage on the à la carte menu.
—<a href="https://www.instagram.com/kasapalma/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">instagram.com/kasapalma</a>; 6042 R. Palma, Makati.
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<h6><a href="https://modanmnl.ph/">Mōdan</a></h6>
Modern Japanese cuisine shines in a one-of-a-kind tasting menu.
<figure id="attachment_138909" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-138909" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-138909 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Modan-Manila-Chef-Jorge-and-Don-Nabe-King-Crab.jpeg" alt="Chef Jorge; Don Nabe king crab." width="1200" height="745" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-138909" class="wp-caption-text">Left to right: Chef Jorge Mendez; sea urchin and king crab in a clay pot at Mōdan. (Courtesy of Mōdan)</figcaption></figure>
Although this 12-seater kitchen has been serving progressive Japanese a little over a year, it has already garnered numerous local accolades. Mōdan is chef Jorge Mendez’s “love song” to everything Japanese, and to his mother who worked in Japan as a singer and first introduced him to Japanese food. Mōdan’s evolving omakase menu is focused on both local and Japanese ingredients. Crowd favorites include the stuffed chicken wing debasaki with a shoyu-cured egg yolk and claypot rice with grilled wagyu short rib and unagi.
—<a href="https://modanmnl.ph/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">modanmnl.ph</a>; Escalades East Tower, 20th Ave, Quezon City.
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<h6><a href="https://www.instagram.com/somethaiph/">Some Thai</a></h6>
Thailand is the inspiration at this casual Quezon City eatery.
<figure id="attachment_138910" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-138910" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-138910 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Some-Thai-Manila-Interior-and-Son-in-Law-Egg.jpg" alt="The interior of Some Thai restaurant; son and law egg." width="1200" height="800" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Some-Thai-Manila-Interior-and-Son-in-Law-Egg.jpg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Some-Thai-Manila-Interior-and-Son-in-Law-Egg-300x200.jpg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Some-Thai-Manila-Interior-and-Son-in-Law-Egg-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Some-Thai-Manila-Interior-and-Son-in-Law-Egg-768x512.jpg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-138910" class="wp-caption-text">Left to right: Banquette seating at Some Thai; the restaurant’s take on son-in-law egg. (Courtesy of Some Thai)</figcaption></figure>
A casual eatery by Mōdan’s chef Jorge Mendez, Some Thai is the Thai diner of the moment, with queues out the door to prove its popularity. Unapologetically, the food here is sometimes authentic and sometimes not, but it is always all good. Must-orders are the tom yum soup, hamachi (amberjack) in nam jim chili sauce, an appetizer called Son and Raw Egg, and the crab curry.
—<a href="https://www.instagram.com/somethaiph/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">instagram.com/somethaiph</a>; 195 Tomas Morato, Sct. Fuentebella St, Quezon City.
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<h6><a href="https://www.instagram.com/carlos.philippines/">Carlo’s</a></h6>
A stylish new spot for American-Italian classics.
<figure id="attachment_138904" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-138904" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-138904 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Carlos-Manila-Photo-by-Scott-A-Woodward.jpeg" alt="The stylish interior of Carlo’s, the new American-Italian restaurant in Fort Bonifacio." width="1200" height="800" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Carlos-Manila-Photo-by-Scott-A-Woodward.jpeg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Carlos-Manila-Photo-by-Scott-A-Woodward-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Carlos-Manila-Photo-by-Scott-A-Woodward-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Carlos-Manila-Photo-by-Scott-A-Woodward-768x512.jpeg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-138904" class="wp-caption-text">The stylish interior of Carlo’s, a new American-Italian restaurant in Fort Bonifacio. (Courtesy of Carlo’s)</figcaption></figure>
While there is definitely no dearth of Italian restaurants in Manila, it’s surprising that despite the rise and return of “red sauce” joints internationally, Manila has not had its own serious contender until now with Carlo’s. The dressed-up space designed by J.J. Acuña of Bespoke Studio showcases a true American-Italian restaurant with nods to New York and Tokyo. Head here when you’ve just binged on The Sopranos and have a hankering for chicken parmigiana, spicy vodka rigatoni, or need a slice to go. Favorite pizzas include the mushroom and sausage, and the broccoli with Japanese bottarga. End with Nonna’s tiramisu, freshly scooped by the serving.
—<a href="https://www.instagram.com/carlos.philippines/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">instagram.com/carlos.philippines</a>; Asian Century Center, Taguig.
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<h6><a href="https://www.facebook.com/steakandfrice">Steak &amp; Frice</a></h6>
A mecca for discerning meat lovers.
<figure id="attachment_138911" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-138911" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-138911 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Steak-Frice-Manila-Dishes.jpeg" alt="Dishes from Steak &amp; Frice; the restaurant’s dessert." width="1200" height="745" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-138911" class="wp-caption-text">Left to right: Comfort food galore at Steak &amp; Frice; the restaurant’s vanilla and strawberry millefeuille. (Courtesy of Steak &amp; Frice)</figcaption></figure>
This is the newest steakhouse in Manila, although to define it as such might be considered reductive. Don’t get us wrong, Steak &amp; Frice serves good steaks — ribeye, striploin, and chateaubriand, all with unlimited French fries and rice in true Steak &amp; Frice fashion (see what they did there?). And the menu has all the trimmings a steakhouse should have: Parker House rolls, bacon Caesar salad, French onion soup, creamed corn, mashed potatoes. But there is so much more. Starters range from cheese pimiento gougères to Typhoon Shelter calamari, while the pasta selection is as extensive as many Italian restaurants, our favorite being the truffle cream and corn mafaldine. Lovely interiors by Dix Design + Architecture, a thoughtful wine list, and a stiff martini make this Steak &amp; Frice &amp; More.
—<a href="https://www.facebook.com/steakandfrice" target="_blank" rel="noopener">facebook.com/steakandfrice</a>; Central Square, Bonifacio High Street Central, Taguig.
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<h6><a href="https://gallerybychele.com/">Gallery by Chele</a></h6>
A new menu awaits at Chele Gonzalez’s signature dining destination.
<figure id="attachment_138905" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-138905" style="width: 1200px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-138905 size-full" src="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Gallery-by-Chele-Manila-Cacao-Ceviche-and-Interior.jpeg" alt="Cacao Ceviche of Gallery by Chelle; the chic and contemporary interior of the restaurant." width="1200" height="894" srcset="https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Gallery-by-Chele-Manila-Cacao-Ceviche-and-Interior.jpeg 1200w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Gallery-by-Chele-Manila-Cacao-Ceviche-and-Interior-300x224.jpeg 300w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Gallery-by-Chele-Manila-Cacao-Ceviche-and-Interior-1024x763.jpeg 1024w, https://staging.destinasian.com/wp-content/uploads/Gallery-by-Chele-Manila-Cacao-Ceviche-and-Interior-768x572.jpeg 768w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-138905" class="wp-caption-text">Left to right: Gallery by Chele’s cacao ceviche; counter-side seating at the same restaurant. (Courtesy of Gallery by Chele)</figcaption></figure>
Though not new, Gallery by Chele has long been among the most sought-after dining destinations in Manila, and it would be remiss to leave it off a list of where to eat in the city, especially as chefs Chele Gonzalez and Carlos Villaflor have just unveiled their latest 10-course dining experience: The Unknown Faces of Cacao. The focus of the new menu (which comes with optional wine or cocktail pairings) is not chocolate but rather the cacao fruit’s many other by-products, from pulp to husk and beyond, resulting in dishes like ceviche made with cacao vinegar and duck breast smoked in dried cacao pods. It’s a delicious and innovative addition to the Philippine dining scene.
—<a href="https://gallerybychele.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">gallerybychele.com</a>; 5/F Clipp Center, 11th Ave cnr. 39th St., BGC, Taguig.
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<h6><a href="https://mgroup.com.ph/">M Dining</a></h6>
Stay tuned for the next act of this beloved dining room.
Another one to watch out for is the second coming of M Dining. When the renowned establishment closed for renovations earlier this year, there was a collective gasp of panic among its loyal patrons, who took to social media asking “Where do we eat now?” Fortunately, the restaurant soon announced its reopening, with July as its target. In its third iteration since 2009, the M Dining doors will reopen to a space reimagined by Jonathan G. Matti Design Associates and a new menu, reinvented by its chef and manager, Tom Bascon and Tippi Tambunting.
—<a href="https://mgroup.com.ph/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">mgroup.com.ph</a>; 3/F, Alegria Alta Building, 2294 Chino Roces Ave, Makati.
This article originally appeared in the <a href="https://subscription.destinasian.com/">June/July 2024</a> print issue of DestinAsian magazine.

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