Why stay?

137 Pillars House Chiang Mai is a time machine that transports guests from today’s modern metropolis to the advent of the city’s global trade alliances at the close of the 19th century. Centered on the original teakwood headquarters of the Borneo Company, this SLH (Small Luxury Hotels of the World) property is a true urban resort that offers convenient access to Thailand’s second city and the serenity of a hidden garden in an antique setting. With only 30 suites in five different configurations, service is impeccable. Personal butlers are on call but unobtrusive, and General Manager Anne Arrowsmith clearly enjoys getting to know her guests. Visitors have told Arrowsmith that “privacy” and “ease of proximity” are two key reasons for choosing 137 Pillars House. “Another feeling I often hear from guests,” she says, “is one of elegance but with the absence of arrogance.”

The neighborhood

The eponymous house of 137 Pillars has been a fixture in one of Chiang Mai’s more interesting neighborhoods for over 125 years. In 1896, the Borneo Company’s manager Louis T. Leonowens (son of Anna Leonowens, the famous tutor of the wives and children of King Rama IV) moved the structure across the Ping River to its current location in the Wat Gate area just a block from the eastern bank. At the time it was a part of town allocated for foreigners and their businesses, a history evident in the number of traditional Burmese, Chinese, Lanna, and colonial-style buildings that still remain here. Just a few hundred meters away stands Wat Ket Karam (aka Wat Sa Ket). This venerable Buddhist temple was founded in 1428, and features a museum established by Jack Bain, son of the Borneo Company’s last manager. Wander through its grounds and you’ll exit on Charoenrat Road, home to a string of riverside restaurant-bars. From there, the Khua Kaek footbridge leads across the Ping directly into the century-old Kad Luang Market, a bustling collection of shops and food vendors.

The main pool at 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai is bordered by a striking green wall.

The feel

137 Pillars House is a breath of fresh air thanks to its tranquil, intimate vibe. Chiang Mai offers a lot to explore, so days can feel busy. What a joy it is to step into the peacefulness of this verdant space! The trees and gardens muffle the outside world, and one can relax in the pool, garden, or inside The Parlour, the communal area of the original teak house. Everything whispers, “Unwind, relax, recharge.”

Guest quarters

All of the suites feature at least three key components: a bedroom that blends contemporary comfort with antique style, a five-piece bathroom including separate chambers for a freestanding tub and an outdoor shower, and a balcony with a traditional Thai daybed—the perfect spot to enjoy the cool welcome coconut. Lines are clean, furnishings stately and uncluttered. Perhaps the only downside to the rooms, especially the pool suites, is that they are so comfortable one’s motivation to explore outside could easily evaporate.

Food and drink

Set just behind the house, The Dining Room is the spot for breakfast and lunch served indoors or alfresco on the deck. The Parlour, meanwhile, makes for a breezy setting in which to enjoy high tea (or you can sit out in the gardens). Jack Bain’s Bar takes you back to the turn of the 20th century and offers all the classics alongside creative signature drinks such as The Aged Teak—a blend of Monkey Shoulder whisky, sweet vermouth, orange bitters, and grapefruit. A cozy white-linen affair of just 24 seats, Palette plates up refined Thai and Western fare made with seasonal farm-to-table ingredients.

Inside The Dining Room; a main course of pan-roasted tuna loin at Palette.

Wellness factor

Partake in yoga on the lawn, stretch out on a lounger, or swim laps in the infinity pool while looking up at a dramatic 12-meter-high green wall. In addition to spa treatments such as massages and body scrubs, the on-site Nitra Serenity Centre provides private instruction in meditation techniques and various martial arts including qigong and Thai boxing.

Family matters

Kids need to relax in comfort, too, and 137 Pillars House offers suites with balconies that can transform into second bedrooms complete with air conditioning. The resort’s common spaces allow families to spread out, while Nitra has an entire menu of spa therapies for children above the age of 12.

Sustainability cred

As well as running its own robust recycling and composting programs, the boutique resort sources fresh produce from farms and companies that use recyclable and/or reusable packaging. 137 Pillars House also funds elephant conservation and reforestation in Thailand through its partnership with the Elephant Nature Park, and supports other NGOs such as the Wat Don Chan Orphanage.

What else?

The lawn occasionally hosts special events, be it Thai dance or music performances, charity fashion shows that spotlight local designers, or themed barbecue and costume tea parties. Off-site heritage experiences include a half-day tour of Chiang Mai’s old city and its lesser-known temples by samlor (cycle rickshaw), or a day trip into neighboring Lampang province.

Reviewed by Christopher White

137pillarshotels.com/en/chiangmai/
+66 53 247 788
2 Soi 1, Nawatgate Rd., Tambon Watgate, Chiang Mai, Thailand

137 Pillars House Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Hotels

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